Escape to Argentina

It’s funny how people say, “nothing in this world is free”.

And people did just that when I told them about this amazing opportunity I had been offered.

The opportunity in question was to travel to Argentina, write a diary about my time and basically have the time of my life. Who would say no?? Um not me!

Okay so lets be honest, I have never written a fully-fledged article, and so to try and explain to my Mum that DNA magazine wants to send me on a press trip, all expenses paid to South America did sound a bit far fetched to her. I know she thought it was another one of my nutty schemes, but I knew better.

I’m a well-traveled guy, who didn’t flunk out of high school.

How hard can this be?

“Too good to be true?” was another phrase that was thrown around.

 Obviously in this case, no it’s not.

It is true, and it wasn’t only good, it was life changing!

So I took the chance and said yes to the adventure!

DAY 1- Sydney, Australia to Buenos Aires, Argentina

I'm surrounded by the melodic sounds of the Spanish language, and I haven’t even left Sydney yet. I'm lining up to check in to flight AR1183 to Buenos Aires and the excitement could only be described as a million butterflies doing the tango in my stomach. The adventures afoot, and this will be the first time I’ve set foot on Argentinean soil.
I look down at my luggage and go through the standard "have I brought too much" routine. And like always, I reassure myself that I need 5 pairs of shoes and 25 pairs of underwear for 10 days. A young gay man has needs after all.
I ask the lady at the desk if the flight is full, and in her best her “Ozzy okka” reply she says "it's chockas mate". I laugh and smile at the journey ahead of me.

The flight is almost 19 hours in total, and I luckily sleep for most of it. I wake up a few hours south of Buenos Aires to look out the window and see the rugged Andes mountains capped in snow below me. Welcome to South America!

I walk through customs to see a cute boy holding a sign with my name on it. The way he pronounces my name "ben-ya-min" is even cuter. The driver is sucking madly on a cigarette and tells me he only speaks poco (little) Ingles (English). I still don't understand one word. The radio is playing Latino house tunes, as the car criss-crosses the streets of Buenos Aires to the area of Palermo.

Palermo is the largest Barrio (neighbourhood) in Buenos Aires, that is fast becoming one of the hippest places in the city, filled with nightclubs, fashionable bars, boutique hotels and design houses. The air is a little cooler than I expected, but very pleasant. I didn't bring a coat with me, oh well perfect excuse to buy a new one. I bring 5 pairs of shoes but no coat.

I check into the Vitrum hotel, a boutique hotel in Palermo Hollywood.

Palermo Soho and Palermo Hollywood are the two trendiest areas, with the names much relating to their counterparts.
I am wide awake after sleeping almost the whole flight so I decide to head out for a couple of drinks and check out BAs nightlife.

I head to a bar called Sitges – At the recommendation of the German Journalist, Dirk who I met in the hotel bar earlier. He is on the same trip and seems like a really nice guy.

It is Karaoke night, run by a drag queen with a black bob and a gold sequin off the shoulder number. The crowd is really into it. I understand nothing, and nobody understands me. I order a margarita. Then another. I’m smiling. A lot.

It's true how they say BA doesn't come alive until at least midnight. Since I have been here it has just got busier by the minute, one cute boy enters after another.
Alexandro, one of the friendly bar staff who has been practicing his English with me, gives me a free pass to check out a club called Amerika, not far from Sitges.

It’s a huge club with high ceilings and various levels, and is packed for a Sunday night. The music is pumping and it looks like a scene from Ibiza or New York. The tequila then flowed; with a new friend I meet called Elio. It seemed like a good idea at the time. It always does. The night carried on.

Day 2 - Buenos Aires - Argentina

I woke with a bit of a sore head, but I’m grinning from the first nights adventures in BA. I take the bus at 11 with the other journalists and tour operators.
Great group of guys, a mix of Mexican, Greek, German, Brazilian, Spanish, Canadian, American and of course me the Australian.
We visit the International Tourism Trade Fair of Latin America. I meet some charming people, and walked off the first of my many Argentinean hangovers.
Lunch was at a restaurant called Annetta. The tourism board from Patagonia made a short, interesting presentation of their area and then the delicious food and of course, vino flowed. The Malbec grape is native to Argentina and makes for a very delicious smooth red. Several glasses are consumed during the long lunch, which is then followed by a well-deserved siesta.
We have dinner booked at Cafe Los Delangelos to see a Traditional Tango show. Dinner is a massive Steak, perfectly cooked and of course the vino is topped up continuously throughout our meal.
The show is colourful and full of passion. It’s the Argentinean way.

The live band is amazing, and the young man playing the accordion is clearly everyone's favorite. The vino glass is never empty. 

Day 3 - Buenos Aires to Posadas, Misiones, Argentina.

Today we fly up to the northern corner of the country to Posadas in the Misiones Province. This province is hugged by, Paraguay, Uruguay and Brasil. Our transfer to the airport is running late, really late. It's okay as it gives me time to nurse my Argentine hangover number 2. We get to the airport literally 10 minutes before our flight. Nobody seems to be in a massive rush here. Miraculously the flight waits for us. Vanina who is looking after us for the rest of our trip greets us speedily and we all run to the plane. We are the last ones on. It's an hour and a half north to Posadas. The landscape is a rich tapestry of greens, dissected by winding rivers. The temperature is a beautiful 25 degrees, and the warm air kisses my skin as we exit the plane.
Our tour guide is a cute little lady who seams very proud of her town and province. She is very informative about everything from the plants to the history of the place. We take a tour of Posadas and along the Parana River, which creates the border of Paraguay and Argentina.
We make our way to Parque Tematico De La Cruz. A giant steel cross that rises high above the rainforest about an hour north of Posadas. Ivan Ortega, who is the Gerente Area Gastronomica, welcomes us. We are treated to wine and 3-course meal of traditional food from the area. We then climb to the top of the man made cross structure. Rising 360m above sea level and is the tallest man made structure in Argentina. The view is simply spectacular of the thick forest below and beyond. We visit the green house where they breed up to 50 different species of butterflies. This takes my breath away and is very beautiful. 

Next up are the ruins of Jesuítico Guaraníes, which was once a famous mission in the province. The air is so still and warm. We have a guide to show us around before the light show after dusk. The light show tells the story of the missions and how the began back in the 1600s. Hence how this province got its name – Misiones. It is quite spectacular. After the show we make out way to Estancia Santa Cecilia. An estancia is a typical Argentinean farming ranch. The very handsome Gaucho named Charlie and his mother Silvana greet us on the verandah with Vino and Cerveza. Gaucho is the name for a traditional Argentine cowboy. We all catch each other’s eye and all smile, and I know we are all thinking the same thing.

We are treated to a 3-course candle light dinner in the main dining room with Charlie and Silvana. I could really get used to this. Most of us retire early, as it has been a long day. I finish my vino out on the veranda and look up to see the sky, filled with an abundance of shining stars. 

Day 4 Estancia Santa Cecilia – Misiones, Argentina

Breakfast on the verandah and there isn’t a cloud in the sky.
We are then strapped up in traditional Gaucho attire for Horse riding on the ranch. My horse is a bit of a slow one and Charlie shouts "hey Australian, kick harder". He calls everyone by their country name. We go on a trail through the property. Gauchos are herding the cattle, and we watch them lasoo some of them to check them for health.
We arrive back at the estancia to a traditional Argentine BBQ cooking beside a burning log fire on the ground. A long table is immaculately set under the shade of an enormous fig tree. We are served Cerveza and vino and relax as the BBQ cooks. It is a leg and the ribs of beef from here on the ranch. These are stuck on two metal poles that stand beside the burning fire. Charlie cuts a piece off the leg and offers me some. It's probably the best tasting beef I have ever had in my life, not to mention the handsome man who gave it to me. Again, did I tell you how much I love Argentina so far.
Almost everything we eat at the estancia is grown or bred here. You can taste the pure freshness in every bite.
I take a dip in the pool to cool off after the long Cerveza filled lunch.

Next stop is Posada Puerto Bemberg, which is further north in the Misiones Provence towards Iguazu. Posada Puerto Bemberg is a small boutique hotel nestled in the heart of the Atlantic rainforest. It’s offers upscale rustic charm and is off the beaten track. Literally.

Emilo who will look after us during our stay greets us. Dinner is again a culinary delight with exceptional service and a never-ending glass of Malbec. Some of us sit in the cosy library after dinner to drink more vino and relax. The Greek journalist Giannis and myself play chess and laugh the night away. I fall into bed at 1am and fall straight to sleep. 

Day 5 - Puerto Bemberg – Misiones Provence, Argentina

I awoke to a peaceful scene of the rainforest and only the sound of birds fill the air. Emilio is also a biologist and is currently writing two books on native birds and insects found in this region.

After breakfast he takes us on a walk through the rainforest, pointing out different bird life and plants. The air is so clean and fresh, I can’t get enough of it.

We are then treated again to another Argentine BBQ in the forest next to a cascada (waterfall). The BBQ is over an open fire and consists of Chorizo, Morcilla (Blood sausage which is similar to British black pudding), huge racks of ribs, a side of beef and chicken. Followed by desert, which is Membrillo. This is a typical dish they eat at BBQs in this province, which is a layer of a quince like paste, topped with a slice of cheese. Delicious.

After lunch I take another dip in the hotel pool. This seems to be coming second nature. Lunch and followed by a swim. Relaxation mode has just hit top gear.
Our guide for the afternoon is Nassa and she is cute and speaks perfect Ingles. Nassa takes us on a boat down the River Parána. The boat is old and rustic. We cruise up the river with Paraguay on one side and Argentina on the other. Its flowing fast and I can see mini whirlpools forming. The banks are muddy and beyond this, the thick jungle rises high up in the mountains. Nassa explains about Paraguay being a great place to pick up imitation electrical goods and cheap cigarettes. We joke about buying an orange phone instead of an Apple. The river branches off to the side and we come to where the water is calmer and Nassa says it’s clean and safe to swim. Myself, and David the Canadian are the only ones who want to go in. We both make a big dive off the front of the boat. The water is perfecto and Nassa then serves us a Cerveza while we are still floating in the water around the boat. This is the life.

We visit a small church after the boat ride, which is nestled in the jungle above the Parana River. We head back to the hotel to pack our bags. Next stop Iguazu Falls.

Arrive at Loi Suites, a 5 star eco friendly hotel in the thick of the Iguazu Jungle. They built this resort with absolute respect for the environment and it shows. Suspension bridges join different parts of the hotel in the tops of trees, running streams flow down around and under everything. Three stunning swimming pools hug the landscape with giant trees that rise up in between.

For dinner we hit Aqva restaurant in Iguazu town and are again treated to a 3-course delight of over-sized steak and a never-ending glass of Malbec.

The night is full of laughs and we all get along as though we have been friends for years. I have made some great friends on this trip.

DAY 6- Cataratas del Iguazú Parque Nacional (Iguazu Falls National Park)

The first thing we see as we walk into the jungle towards the falls is a Toucan. Ok I can die happy now. It is a very unique looking bird with its stark contrast of the bright orange and yellow beak, to its shiny black feathers.

As we walk towards the falls the sounds of rushing water gets louder and louder.

My breath is truly taken away when I have my first glimpse of the falls.

I am in awe and it is a truly impressive sight.

The Parana and Iguazu rivers meet to create the mighty falls, which straddle the border between Brasil and Argentina. Consisting of 300 individual waterfalls, some 1.7 miles wide, and up to 270 feet high, this is one unbelievable sight.

We admire her from various lookouts and bridges until we reach the bottom and board the jet boat.

The water is flowing and swirling fast. We are taken right under the falls in two different places. The sheer noise of the water crashing down onto us is an insane experience. People on the boat are screaming with sheer excitement. Or maybe that is panic also. It’s an adrenalin rush either way and we are soaked through.

After lunch we take the train to the furthest side of the falls closest to Brasil. To get there, it’s a long winding metal bridge that rises above the Parana River. It takes us to a platform sitting basically on top of the “Devils Throat” part of the falls. This is the most powerful and biggest of all falls. The water tumbles beneath us, and everyone is wet from the huge off spray. The intensity of the masses of flowing water shows on this side, and gives off one of the most stunning rainbows I have ever seen. It is a magical feeling and I feel very alive! It’s one thing you must see in your lifetime. One I am glad I have done, and definitely will never forget.

DAY 7- Back to Buenos Aires – Argentina

We fly back to BA and are staying in the Hotel Panamericano right beside the Oblisque, the centre point of BA. Panamericano is 5 stars and the view is the same. We meet at 5.30 to go to attend Gay Pride Festival. The party begins in the Plaza de Mayo and is one big kaleidoscope of colour and sound. Rainbow flags are everywhere; smiling faces of all races are here.

Cerveza is sold on the street and there is markets selling everything from rainbow badges to hamburgers. We make our way to the starting point of the parade and the noise of the whistling crowd is powerful and exciting.

We walk with the parade the whole way down Avenida de Mayo through the city, beside a truck full of people dancing, singing and smiling. I feel so alive and so proud to be part of such a movement. I meet so many different people who are all genuinely beautiful and so boldly passionate about just about everything. I try and take it all in. It is an overload for the senses.

After, we have dinner booked at a restaurant called Inside, which is a male strip club also. Need I say more?

After a very entertaining dinner we hit a club called Human. It is arguably one the “the” gay clubs to go to in BA at the moment, located south along the river towards the airport. It is overwhelming in size and filled with thousands of cute guys and girls across two huge rooms. We drink cocktails and dance on podiums until the wee hours of Sunday morning.

DAY 8 Buenos Aires – Argentina

It’s a perfect Sunday morning (ok afternoon) and we head to the barrio of San Telmo. The markets are on, people are everywhere, but it's very peaceful and laid back. There is band playing music and couples dancing the tango on the Plaza Dorrego. This is San Telmo’s main plaza. We eat breakfast (lunch) in a cafe on the plaza and the band then plays “Don't cry for me Argentina”. It almost brings a tear to my eye and I am speechless.

Later I stroll through the streets of Caminito in the barrio of La Boco in BA. The houses here are exploding with colour. A mix of oranges, red, turquoise and blue. The streets are cobbled stone and there are little market stalls scattered throughout the area.

I take hundreds of photos of the quaint houses and small shops.

After buying some cute souvenirs I find a little café that spills onto the street. The café is positioned just across the street from the famous colourful corner building that adorns most postcards for the area.
The rays of sun are shining in my face, while the smooth Latin music fills the air. If I was any more relaxed now I would be dead. La Boco is Latin America at its best. Flavour is literally dripping down the coloured walls. Across the street from me, a couple in traditional tango dress go about their passionate dance.
I’m sipping Cerveza, nibbling on olives and cheese and then it hits me. Today is the last day I am here. I feel sad that I have to say goodbye so soon. This really has been one unforgettable adventure that will stay with me for the rest of my life.

I have till 2am to get my flight so I decide on one last little adventure and head to a bar call Flux. Within 5 minutes I’m chatting to two young guys who have grown up in BA and are currently studying at the University, we instantly connect and I spend the last few hours in BA laughing and chatting with these typically good looking Argentinean boys. Reluctantly I leave them at the bar as I have a flight to catch. I have a grin from ear to ear, maybe because of them or maybe the Cerveza? I think both.

As the beautiful city of Buenos Aires flashes by me for the last time in the taxi to the airport, I think to myself, what a truly unique and awe-inspiring country Argentina is. Admirable, passionate people spilled across a vast array of gorgeous and impressive landscapes. It will always hold a special place in my heart after this experience. I came, I saw, I laughed, I cried, and I loved every single minute.  Adios Argentina you have been very good to me.

Muchas Gracias xx